METHOD OF SPECTACLE MAKING

Jeff Press, the renowned designer, once stated that those who talk about a "Golden Age" of eyewear often fail to comprehend that we inhabit that very Golden Age. There have never been more options for the average consumer to affordably resolve complex issues and access the highest quality visual experiences. Yet, I believe that every Golden Age must eventually conclude, and history shows us that such ends often result from the hubris of its benefactors. The COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 starkly revealed the fragility of supply chain models in countless product sectors, exposing several failure points inherent in the globalized model. In March 2020, the majority of the more than six thousand eyewear manufacturers located in China reported that only 10% of their workforce was present, with each facility being managed by a single floor manager, where there should have been five (Chan 2020). I wish to clarify that I don't see anything inherently wrong with manufacturing eyewear in China, or in any country. However, when a supply chain becomes so heavily dependent on global transportation systems, it becomes as fragile as a pane of glass.

The answer is clear: foster a large number of decentralized, unaffiliated, small-scale manufacturers focusing on domestic sales within their regions, striving to source raw materials domestically wherever possible. Unfortunately, this is a daunting task in the United States. There are few US-based manufacturers of cotton-based cellulose acetate suitable for eyewear manufacturing. The few that exist have extremely limited availability of color and thickness. The tight tolerances required for hinge machining, coupled with prohibitive minimum order quantities, make sourcing suitable domestic metal production teams challenging. Although consumers have more choices than ever before, the harsh reality of any large industry is that attention follows sales. Consequently, a statistically insignificant demographic is invariably overlooked—those for whom ready-to-wear eyewear is beyond reach. This group includes individuals with cranial abnormalities and facial disfigurements, often compounded by neurodiversity or, for war veterans, post-traumatic stress disorder. These individuals face an additional barrier, restricted from accessing the primary accessory that enhances one's appearance. There are options to hold a pair of prescription lenses in front of their eyes; the bare minimum, but this does not encompass the essence of eyewear, fulfilling only half its purpose.

I hope that this book will present the methodology I have developed for domestic small-batch production, creating a model that can be easily replicated by those sharing my passion (or obsession). This book will be most useful to those who are already working within the eye care industry, as many decisions in the process are best informed by experience with eyewear. I welcome and anticipate a fair amount of criticism. I count on the global community of opticians and lunettiers to correct me where I err. Please note that I strive to make this first edition as comprehensive as my knowledge permits. I believe that it is incumbent upon all of us to be as open as possible to learning new methods, new techniques, and to openly debate them.